Transcript:

Host 1: So what do you think about glycolic acid for an anti-aging type treatment?

Host 2: I love it. I think it is a great maintenance. I think it is essential, especially as you get into… Even starting at 25 when that collagen perception starts to slow down, keeping the skin smooth, keeping the surface clean and regenerating itself.

I love the combinations. I love the glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic. I like them when they are kind of blended together and you get the benefits of all three wonderful little acids.

Host 1: Glycolic acid can come in different percentages and you can find a lot of glycolic acid products in drugstores or…

Host 2: They are everywhere now.

Host 1: But usually what you are getting is a lower percentage of the glycolic Acid, because they don’t want you taking a very strong glycolic Acid and…

Host 2: Peeling your face!

[crosstalk]

Host 1: That is why when you go to an estheticians or a dermatologist, they know how long to leave it on for.

Host 3: Hopefully.

Host 1: Well hopefully, and the percentage to use for your particular skin type or your particular problem. But you can find some glycolic acid treatments that work really well. You might take a little bit longer to see results because you are not dealing with the higher percentage of concentration of the glycolic acid.

Host 3: But you want to see results over an extended amount of time, and that is the whole, I think, impetus. It’s prevention. It’s reversing. It’s not going to happen overnight and we all want it to happen overnight. “I don’t like this spot. Get it off.”

Host 1: Well yeah, and a lot of people use products and they go, “Well I am using it, but it didn’t work!” But you have to be consistent. You have to be patient.

Host 2: You can’t sleep with your makeup on and expect the Retin-A to work! [laughs]

And I think, going back to glycolics and alpha-hydroxys, when the first introduced it, it was high percentages and peel, peel, peel. I think it’s important for consumers to realize that it is something that is better left on the skin. So using it in a wash is not going to be the most effective way to…

Host 3: They just rinse it right off.

Host 2: It just comes right off so quickly. Salicylic acid in a wash, I do like for acne care.

Host 3: But again, not for expecting mothers.

Host 2: Right. And with the glycolics and alpha-hydroxys, to have them left on the skin in a serum form I think is a nice benefit.

Host 3: Toners, as well, are really nice way to mildly exfoliate the skin and establish that PH balance and prep it for what is next.

You know, I really like what you were saying about vitamin A’s at night. I really like to do kind of, if you are going to peel your skin, if you are going to do this exfoliation, do it at night! And then during the day…

Host 2: Protect.

Host 3: Protect.

Host 2: And soothe. Absolutely.

Host 3: Because our skin is regenerating itself at night. That is when most beneficial… You are going to see the best benefits from a product.

Host 2: Right. Absolutely.

Host 1: Well, and then the glycolic acid works more on the upper layers of the skin. And when you use a retinol type product that is working it deeper into the skin.

Host 2: And it is such a beautiful combination to use the two together.

Host 3: Absolutely. Swab off the exterior, work from the interior out.

Host 1: So what the Retinol is actually doing underneath the skin is regenerating healthy skin cell growth, right? So that will help plump your skin and give it back some of its vitality and elasticity.

Host 3: Lactic acid, I found, is really fun for people who want a quick peel and want to walk out looking gorgeous.

Host 2: It is very gentle. Great for Rosacea.

Host 3: Absolutely. It’s milk!

Host 2: Rosacea clients. For people that are more sensitive, lactic is phenomenal.

Host 3: Apparently Cleopatra use to bathe in milk and she had gorgeous skin.

Host 1: So what would you recommend? A treatment like once a week with lactic acid if you just want your skin to glow and have that…

Host 2: I don’t… Maybe once a week I would say enzymes. Something at home, enzymes. If you are going to see your esthetician in her practice, in his practice, lactic acid. I don’t know about once a week, though. I think that presets into that thought, like, “Peel it, peel it, peel it,” instead of four to six weeks, getting into the cycle of skin.

Host 1: Right. Absolutely. You can overdo it.

[crosstalk]

[laughter]

Host 2: What will happen next? Yeah, excellent. I think another thing that is newer on the market, well the last few years, are peptides. I don’t know your experience with peptides.

But peptides, for consumers, are little protein molecules that basically speak the same language as the cells. So if your skin cells need to produce more collagen or elastin, there are specific peptide molecules that tell your skin cells to do that.

And so it supports the inhibition or not breaking down of elastin and collagen and helps to stimulate new collagen and elastin growth.

Host 3: Which is the matrix that gives our skin the strength that it needs.

Host 2: … support. So if you think of it as… I think matrix is the best way and most people can understand what a matrix system is. But as we get older, the skin cells break down. Collagen breaks down. And when collagen breaks down you get a wrinkle. When elastin breaks down you get the sagging of the skin.

So both of those ingredients, or both of those structures, are needed to be in place to have nice smooth, young looking skin.

I think peptides coming on the marketplace is one of the most exciting things, because we can actually go in and help repair and prevent that breakdown. I have had clients that have had beautiful results with the peptides.

Host 1: And even with the skin sagging…

[crosstalk]

Host 1: Yeah, because it is different. The wrinkling is kind of different than what happens when your skin starts sagging.

Host 2: Right. You can have perfectly smooth skin, but it is sagging.

Host 1: Yeah. You have lost elasticity here, I mean let’s all stand up! But, you know. It happens.

Host 2: It does.

Host 1: People think that wrinkles are the first things that really happen to your skin, that you will see the aging occur, but it is actually the sagging of it.

Host 3: You have lost elasticity.

Host 1: And that is what we were talking about earlier, was that DEMA, which is… Have you used that in your salon?

Host 2: I have used it here and there, yes, a little bit. I still go back to those peptides because I am not as familiar, and the stability I still kind of question a little bit.

Host 1: It is new. They are still doing research on it and they are still trying to figure out really why…

Host 2: Why it works; how it works Yeah.

Host 1: So it hasn’t been studied really in depth, but you can find it in products and people have had good results. And we found out it is derived from fish, right?

Host 3: It is a naturally occurring protein in salmon and sardines.

Host 2: Well, and it is excellent to take internally.

Host 3: That is exactly right. And all this excitement about fish oils… We are what we eat, so putting it in internally.

Host 2: Absolutely.

Host 3: And then Paragon has put it on the market in his product, in his serum. And we also learned that if you are working with DEMA, it needs to be stabilized with vitamin C in order for those two to interact.

Host 2: OK. Makes sense. And I think I really see a difference in people’s skin when they are taking it internally. Virgin coconut oil is another great addition to the diet. Just put it in a shake, protein shake, or what have you.

Host 3: Put it on your toast.

Host 2: Oh, it is great! You can cook with it! And really whole body hydration. I notice than when people are feeling dry and they make that addition…

Host 3: And you smell delicious!

[laughter]

Host 2: You do! Who doesn’t love coconut?

[laughter]

Transcript:

Host 1: Hi. Welcome to today’s talk with Diva Skincare. Today we are going to be talking about anti-aging and aging of the skin. How does it happen?

I think the first thing that is really important to know is that aging happens in the skin because of inflammation. There is a process that is called the inflammation cascade that is responsible for aging throughout the entire body.

You have probably heard of free radicals. Free radicals are produced as a result of that inflammation cascade, and they actually go in and damage healthy tissue, healthy cells. It is a natural process, but it is what is responsible for the bottom line aging to the skin and the body.

With that, I think…

Host 2: Unfortunately, about 90% of aging is due to extrinsic lifestyle. The sun is the number one aging factor. So if we are looking to prevent aging, SPF is going to be our number one defense.

Host 3: UVA and UVV protection; you have to do it everyday.

Host 1: Absolutely. Rain or shine.

Host 3: And it can be in your moisturizer. It can be in your makeup. But make sure you wear it, because that is going to give you the most protection.

Host 1: I think one thing that people don’t think about is when they get up in the morning and they put their sunscreen on, they think they are good for the whole day.

But actually, you really need to reapply that sunscreen, and I think that it is important for people to get used to it. If they are out for a day at the beach, of course they are going to be thinking reapply, but just in day to day living, your sunscreen is going to give you about three to four hours or so of protection.

That is where mineral makeup powders really come in handy, because you can reapply it.

Host 2: That is really convenient. It takes out the extra shine and evens out your skin tone. A really good defense also if you are going to do layering at home, remember your vitamin C.

Any serum that has antioxidants, which are going to combat the free radicals, vitamin C, E, A, whatever you can get into your skin before you are putting your sunscreen on is going to be great for defense, then to remembering to reapply throughout the day.

Host 3: It really is an excellent support for the skin.

Host 2: Well let’s talk a little bit about the retinol end products that we are seeing all over the place lately. I mean is it really a more mild version of Retin-A that you would get at your dermatologist’s office? What have you seen?

Host 1: I think it is definitely a milder form. It really depends on the formulation and how it is delivered into the skin. I like vitamin A and retinol’s end creams, but my personal preference is I like to see them used at night so you are not having that potential photosensitivity or sun sensitivity.

Host 2: Right. And you really want to make sure, especially when you are using those types of products, that you protect your skin during the day.

[crosstalk]

Host 2: I mean you will burn faster, turn pink…

Host 3: And that is the whole point!

[crosstalk]

Host 2: If you don’t use the product the right way…If you use a product like that that is going to make you sensitive to the sun and you go out into the sun and you burn, you are just defeating the whole purpose.

Host 3: Right. Damaging all over again.

Host 2: And also with the retinol products I think it is consistency. I mean you are not going to see results unless you use the product on a regular basis. So if you use it a couple times a week and you forget to apply it, then it is just not going to have the same effect as if you…

Host 1: Are applying it on a regular basis.

Host 2: Yeah. So consistency and letting the product work, giving it time for it to work, because a lot of people want to see results right away. And this is something that you would probably need to use for a month or two before you see any smoothness or any firming.

Host 3: I think maybe we should tell people what a retinoid or a retinol is. It is a derivative of vitamin A, and vitamin A is the skin’s vitamin. So when we are ingesting or applying topically vitamin A, retinoids, retin-A, it is dictating to the dermis, “Birth new cells.”

So having said that, there is a thin line between women who are expecting, or breast feeding, or pregnant.

Host 2: Right.

Host 3: Take care and know that maybe retinoids can’t cross over that barrier, maybe.

Host 1: Yeah, depending on the formulation and the molecule size…

Host 3: Especially with Retin-A.

Host 1: Yeah, Retin-A is a definite no-no. And I think also as people start getting into glycolic acids and doing resurfacing of their skin and sometimes forget about the waxing contraindication.

Host 3: Well that can be a nightmare. If you use the Retin-A product and you go in to get a waxing treatment…

Host 2: The skin lifts.

Host 3: The skin can actually lift off…

Host 1: It always does. And you stop and say, “So tell me what you are using on your skin.”

Host 3: So you want to make sure you are telling your esthetician or wherever you get your brows done if you are on products like this, because your skin is going to be more sensitive, and you don’t want to have any permanent scarring or damage due to that.

Host 2: Some people don’t know, though. And I really do think about, you know, you have got to be aware of products. You have got to be aware of the most active ingredients in your product. What am I putting on my skin? Why am I choosing this? How is it affecting my skin?

And when we start getting into the whole resurfacing, glycolics, retinoids, salicylic, that is where really I think people need to increase their knowledge.